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Laurels

Laurels are strong growing, hardy and versatile plants, capable of withstanding both dry and wet conditions. They are healthy growing and suffer from very few pests and diseases.

As a hedging plant the can provide a great backdrop for other planting and are superb in providing privacy screening. They can be hard pruned if necessary and will always grow back vigorously. The growth rate can vary from 30-80cm per year depending on the growing conditions The height can be maintained at as little as 120cm if required, or they can be left to grow up to 400cm. We have a number a sizes available from 60cm – 175cm. Please call us for the best advice and the best price; the more you buy the more you save!

 

Featured Tree – Rowan (Sorbus aucuparia)

Rowan trees are generally small growing and are very suitable for small gardens. They have white flowers in May, followed by berries in late summer and early autumn.

Depending on the variety the berries can be red, orange, yellow or white and are good for attracting birds. All Rowans have wonderful orangey-red autumn leaf colours.

Recommended varieties:

Sorbus aucuparia (Common Rowan, orangey red berries)

Sorbus Sheerwater Seedling (Upright growing, red berries)

Sorbus Sunshine (Yellow berries)

Sorbus Chinese Lace (Fern-shaped leaves, orangey-red berries)

Sorbus Edulis (Larger growing with edible orangey-red berries. Good for making rowan jelly)

Sorbus cashmiriana (Small growing, white berries)

Laying Turf

Peak turf laying time is almost here, and will give you instant results!

The main advantages are:

Timing – Turf can be laid almost any time of the year, providing sufficient water is available.

Speed – You can start lightly using your new lawn in about three to four weeks.

No Weeds – There will be no competition from germinating weed seeds.

From September onwards is the best time to lay new turf. If you’re renewing old turf, it might be better to wait until there has been sufficient rain to soften the soil so that stripping off the old turf is easier.

We recommend that the old turf is sprayed with herbicide to kill both the existing grass and any weeds. This will give you a ‘clean’ start when the new turf goes down. Professional herbicides will give the best results but you need to use a qualified and licensed contractor.

There are the four main steps for a perfect lawn:

Soil preparation.

If you have heavy clay soil you will need to incorporate sharp grit to improve the soil texture and maintain good drainage. Organic matter and fertiliser should be incorporated to ensure good soil structure and a balance of important soil nutrients. 150-200cm is the ideal incorporation depth, either by digging or rotovating. Ensure the soil is not too wet when cultivating.

Consolidation and flattening.

It’s not always possible to have a level lawn, but it’s certainly possible to have a flat lawn; sometimes you have to work with the topography you’re presented with.

After the cultivation stage it’s important consolidate to the soil. This is best achieved by treading with your heels (Rolling is not recommended). After treading, rake the soil so that you rake the high parts into the hollows. Repeat this process up to three times so that the soil is evenly consolidated, but not compacted. The final raking should leave the prepared soil flat, with the top 25mm evenly loose.

Turf laying.

It’s important to obtain freshly cut and weed-free cultivated turf. Work out where to start laying so you don’t need cut and shape too much turf. Lay the turf facing the prepared soil so you don’t need to walk on it after it’s been raked. If soil preparation has been carried out correctly it’s not usually necessary to stand on a board when laying the turf, but try to avoid walking on the same areas or leaving indentations. Lay the turf in a bonded pattern, avoiding long straight joints.  Make sure the pieces of turf are well butted up to each other. Try to avoid having small cut areas of turf on the edge when laying.

Aftercare.

If the weather is warm and dry it’s important to water newly laid turf. Watering should be consistent but do not over-water, as this may destroy the consolidated structure of the soil below. Watering in the evening will more efficient as there will be less water lost through evaporation; particularly important if your water is metered! Apply high nitrogen fertiliser in March and high potash fertiliser in September.